Our Charlotte skirts are fast approaching the finish line, folks! Today we'll be showing you how to attach the waistband flawlessly, and finishing the flap fastening.
If you need to catch up, look at the previous Charlotte skirt sewalong posts.
Ok guys, let's get to it.
With right sides together, fold your waistband in half lengthways. Stitch one end shut and the other end in a sort of reverse "L" shape, stopping at the point marked "centre back" on the pattern. This will form the fastening flap. Trim the excess seam allowance, turn to the right side and press the entire waistband, as shown below.
Open up the waistband and pin one of the raw edged lengths to the waistline of the skirt, right sides together, as shown below. Bear in mind that the waistband has 3/8" ease to accommodate the peplum, so if you're making either the plain or ruffle-hem variations, you might need to make up for that by stitching the non-flap end of the waistband with a full inch seam allowance as opposed to the recommended 5/8". The best way to make sure you get a perfect fit along the waistline is to start pinning your waistband at the flap end, and any extra length at the other end can be easily adjusted without having to repin the entire thing. Once you're happy with the waistband pinned to the waistline, machine stitch into place. Press the seam allowance up into the waistband.
Now press the seam allowance of the remaining raw edged length inwards and pin it in place inside the skirt along the waistline, thereby sandwiching the raw edged seam allowance at the waistline of the skirt.
Time to put the kettle on. Or pour yourself a whiskey - but only if you're already a confident blind stitcher and you are, in fact, of age to be sippin' & sewin'.
If you've decided to add a lining to your Charlotte skirt, you'll remember us taking you through the motions of blind stitching. If that's all news to you, fear not, we're gonna do it again. We just can't get enough.
- Thread up your hand sewing needle with a length of thread about 5" longer than your waistline measurement. Knot one end securely a good few times.
- Use your needle to pick up a few strands from the lining fabric (or the main fabric of the skirt if you are omitting the lining), and pull the needle through (fig.1).
- Reinsert the needle into the pressed edge of the waistband directly above the point at which your needle just came out (fig.2). Using the pressed fold as a guide, slide the needle an centimetre or so along inside the fold and then come out again.
- Keep repeating figs. 1 & 2 the entire length of the waistline and securely knot off your stitching at the end. If you gently pull back the waistband you'll see lots of tiny, evenly spaced stitches, that invisibly secure the inside of the waistband (fig.3).
Look at that for a crispy finish.
We think that the neatest, and most practical way to finish the fastening on the Charlotte skirt is by hand sewing a hook & eye or a popper to secure the flap down (make sure you catch only one layer of the fabric with your needle so as not to have any unsightly stitches showing through). You can then sew a button or decorative something onto the flap without having to bother with a buttonhole. We'd only recommend buttonholes for the very confident sewist and certainly not for anyone using a fabric prone to fraying. It's only going to end in tears. This time we went for a popper...
And a decorative something.
Just one post left to go - sniff - in our first ever official sewalong! We'll be back before the weekend with all things hem. We'll be going over three different hemming techniques, showing you how to add a back split for added walkability and showing you how we did that dipped hem ruffle mini... Do you dare?