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Full Bust Adjustment & Small Bust Adjustment for the Loren top & dress

You might be scratching your head here and wondering why you might need to alter the bust on such a floaty, loose fitting pattern - and you'd be absolutely right in thinking that, given the amount of ease the pattern is designed to have, there's little to no need to add or remove any width across the bust for a pattern such as Loren blouse and dress. However, other than the width, another thing that bust size affects is the final length at the centre front (CF) of the garment, and that is what we will be looking at in this tutorial.

Let's say for example that your measurements fit roughly into our size UK 28, but your bust is smaller than the dressmaker's D cup that our larger size range is drafted to. Without that fuller bust proportion, the hem of the Loren blouse/dress will appear to be too long at the front, as there is a shorter distance for the CF line to travel over a smaller bust. You'll possibly also note that the side seams swing towards the back.

Similarly, if your measurements put you closer to a size UK 12, but your bust is significantly larger than the dressmaker's B cup that our smaller size range is drafted to, then the CF will be too short for you: the front hem will be riding up and the side seams will be swinging towards the front.

This is a super simple fit fix that you can apply to the Loren blouse and dress pattern, or indeed any pattern where the CF line is too short or long, but you don't want to add or remove any space to the width across the bust.

Centre front too short

Step 1

On your toile, cut a horizontal line across the bodice front at the bust line.

Allow the bottom half to drop until the side seams are vertical and the front hem is level. Measure the opening at the CF. This is the amount you will be adding to your paper pattern.

Step 2

Now take your bodice front pattern piece, and mark out the seam allowance at the side seam.

Draw a horizontal line across the bust, adding a hinge point where this line meets the side seam allowance.

Cut across this line, stopping at the hinge and then snipping in to the hinge at the seam allowance.

Slip a piece of scrap paper underneath and tape the top section down.

At the CF, measure the opening so it corresponds to how much you added to your toile, and tape the bottom section down, adding a triangular wedge across the bust line.

Straighten off the CF with a ruler, and straighten out the side seam. 

Don't worry about the sliver that you've trimmed off the CF making the width across the bust smaller; this will essentially be added back on when you straighten out the side seam.

Centre front too long

Step 1

On your toile, check your side seams. If they are sitting vertically, all you'll need to do is trim away the unwanted length from the bodice front hem!

If, as well as your front hem dipping too low, your side seams are swinging towards the back, you'll need to do the reverse of the tutorial above:

Pinch and pin a horizontal wedge out of your bodice across the bust line until the side seams are vertical and you're happy with the front hem length. The amount that you have pinched out at the CF is how much you'll be removing from your paper pattern.

Step 2

Now take your bodice front pattern piece, and mark out the seam allowance at the side seam.

Draw a horizontal line across the bust, adding a hinge point where this line meets the side seam allowance.

Cut across this line, stopping at the hinge and then snipping in to the hinge at the seam allowance.

From the slash line, measure up the CF the amount you pinched out of your toile and make a mark.

Overlap the slash line and tape it down when it meets the marking, thereby removing a triangular wedge across the bust line.

Straighten off the CF with a ruler, and straighten out the side seam.

Don't worry about the sliver that you've added to the CF making the width across the bust larger; this will essentially be removed when you straighten out the side seam.

***

And there you have it! A super simple FBA and SBA for looser fit patterns like our Loren blouse and dress, for when you need to adjust the CF length. An excellent technique to have under your belt!

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