Understitching is an often forgotten yet highly effective technique that prevents linings and facings from poking out to the outside of a garment. Best of all, understitching is quick to do and easy to master, resulting in an effortlessly professional finish!
What you need:
- A garment that has either a lining or facing to be attached to the shell eg. the neckline facing on the Anna Dress; the bodice lining on the Georgia Dress.
To illustrate the understitching process, we have two pieces of scrap fabric - the red print represents the main shell fabric, the white represents the lining or facing.
To prepare for understitching, you'll need to go ahead and join your shell and lining/facing pieces together as normal - right sides together and with 5/8" or 15mm seam allowance.
Now, if you were to forego the understitching and simply press your seam, you would probably have a neckline that looks a little like this - neatly sewn and pressed, but with the lining/facing fabric ever so slightly on show (and with time and wear and washing would become more pronounced):
Understitching will fix this! Here's how:
First things first, remember to clip/notch any curves before understitching!
Open out your seam and press the excess seam allowance towards the lining/facing. Pin the seam allowance into place to the lining/facing.
Staying as close as possible to the seam line, no more than a few mm, sew a line of stitching parallel to the seam, essentially stitching the seam allowance to the lining/facing.
Now press your lining/facing to the inside.
Your lining/facing should now stay nice and flat, preventing it from rolling out to the front.
All done! Another nerdy sewing technique in the bag.