Briefly interrupting the Elisalex Dress Sewalong to bring you a quick and easy tutorial on how to add side seam pockets - not only to the Elisalex Dress, but also to just about anything with a side seam! I think we can all agree that the addition of pockets significantly ups the convenience of almost any garment - and you'll be surprised how easy it is to do...
Step 1:
Cut out 2 pairs of pocket bag pieces. You can either use our pocket pattern piece, download it here, or simply draft one yourself - copy the shape below, making sure it's big enough to get your hand in, plus extra all round for the seam allowance!
Step 2:
Snip a little notch into the side seam of your main fabric (on each side of your front and back pieces) to mark the top of where your pocket will sit. On this high waisted skirt shown, we have snipped the notch about 5 1/2" down from the waistline. Using the image below as a guide, take one of your pocket bag pieces and lay it, right sides together, onto your skirt front piece (or jacket piece or whatever you are adding pockets to!), aligning the top of the pocket piece with the notch you just snipped. Pin into place. Repeat this on the other side, and on both sides of the skirt back piece.
Step 3:
Stitch the pocket pieces into place with a 3/8" seam allowance. This is so that when we close the side seams, the pockets will sit slightly inside, for a more discreet finish.
Step 4:
Turn the pocket pieces out, and press.
Step 5:
Now place the skirt back pieces onto your front piece, right sides together, and pin down the side seams and all around the pockets pieces.
Step 6:
Close the side seams as normal, pivoting when you get to the top of the pocket, stitching the two pocket pieces together, then continuing down the rest of the side seam, using the image below as a guide.
All done!
Now press the side seam towards the front and when you turn your garment to the right side, you'll have something that looks a little bit like this:
Super easy no? And this is a technique that can not only be applied to any skirt/dress/jacket/trousers etc that you're making (provided it has a side seam!), but you could even add side seam pockets to any existing garments simply by unpicking the side seams and following the instructions above - just think of all those vintage dresses in your wardrobe that would benefit massively from the addition of pockets!
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Elisalex de Castro Peake
Comments on this post (35)
Thanks heaps, I’m using a ‘pattern’ in the broadest sense of the word and it doesn’t say what seam allowance to use for the pocket but I had it in my head that the pocket seam would be less than the main side seam. I feel rather self righteous now. Thanks for the reassurance.
— Diane Warburton
This is so beautiful. I had never inserted a pocket like this before but following your clear and detailed instructions made it a breeze. Thank you.
— Mercy
One person commented that putting something inside of her new pocket pulls the garment into an ugly shape. Minutes ago I finished watching a victorian skirt making video by Bernadette Banner. After the 15 minute mark somewhere, she explains that the instructions had indicated to use a tape to suspend the pocket from the waistband, but she did not do that. She realized later, that tape would allow the weight in the pocket to pull down on the waist rather than pulling on the seam of the garment. It avoids pulling the garment into an ugly shape. A eureka moment for me. To watch search for this video: “Making an 1895 Walking Skirt (Using an 1895 Drafting Method)” by Bernadette Banner. Hope it is okay to mention this here. Loved the tutorial on this page – I think combining it with the tape method could be amazing – if I can figure it out! :-)
— LM
What an excellent tutorial. I used this to put side seam pockets in three pairs of my husband’s cotton boxer shorts. So simple and straightforward. I drew my own pocket pattern similar to your photo and simply opened up the existing left side seam and went on from there. Thank you so much. I found your posting by Googling and will keep your website bookmarked for future reference.
— Linda
Hi Shirley – Unfortunately that is the nature of pockets in skirts, which is why a lot of skirts don’t already come with pockets.
— Jessica - By Hand London
Hi Kathleen – Did you see! We updated this post with a free pocket pattern. Happy Sewing!
— Jessica - By Hand London
Hi Jenny – I would use either the same fabric as your skirt or a cotton in the same weight of fabric.
— Jessica - By Hand London
This is a fantastic tutorial. Thank you for posting and sharing.
— Nilam
What is the most appropriate fabric to use for pockets?
— Jenny P
Where can I buy a pattern to cut side seam pockets or buy the pockets already To sew
— Kathleen Magee
Great i structions. Easy to follow andgreat diagrams. The best instructions for inserting a pocket that i have found.
— Alanah crump
Just what I needed!!! Great instructions, easy to follow…thank you! thank you!! thank you!!!
— Cynthia Albertson
Haven’t sewed in years…making skirts without a pattern….this was a big help. THANK YOU so much,
— Lucia diecks
This was the best instruction on inserting pockets into a garment I’ve seen. And I did extensive searches, so I know what I’m talking about.
I used to sew all the time, but it’s been a decade since sewing clothing, so very much appreciated finding this posting.
Thank you, can’t thank you enough!
Barb
— Barb White
Excellent pictures and instructions. I am making pajamas for a friend of mine who got out of the hospital and didn’t have the side pocket in this particular pattern. You rocked it for us thank you so very much.
— Sue
Im teaching myself to sew. Im about to make some 3/4 pants with side pockets. I haven’t done pockets before. My pattern instructions are a bit hard to follow. But this tutorial is so easy to understand I now feel more confident to start my project. Thank you very much!!
— Sue
Thank you for such a clear explanation and great visuals. Helped me immensely! 👍🏼
— Patricia
It’s the slip pocket sides on waistcoats /jackets stopping the corners fraying. thanks morag
— morag wallace
Thanks for such beautifully clear instructions with excellent illustrations. Very helpful!
— Liz Lumsdon
Love this. I had forgotten how to do this. and it is so clear. Thank you so much
— Helen Lemrick
Thank you so much – a nice clear, simple tutorial that makes sense of the pattern I am trying to make..
— Pat Mason
Very simple&clear tutorial i have seen. Congratilation.
— Mehtap
Wow! Thanks
— Angela
I’m teaching myself to sew and this was the perfect! Thank you!
— Patricia Holler
Thank you so much. I am making a dummy run of a skirt that I love. Now need to add the waist.
— Jo Ireland